‘The Bear’ Deserves Every Accolade Bestowed Upon It

Here’s my response to a Chicago columnist’s attempt to diminish the importance of the award-winning drama series.

I have a bone to pick with the Chicago Reader.

Recently, one of its columnists decided to rail against “The Bear,” FX’s critically acclaimed, Chicago restaurant-focused series with a unique perspective on the culinary industry. He wrote:

“I’ve grown to resent the show as it has become a cultural phenomenon. It’s so thoroughly embedded in the pop culture zeitgeist that it feels impossible to escape Bear fever—especially in Chicago, where people rally around the program like it's an NFL team with Super Bowl potential.”

Now what is wrong with that?!

In an effort to appear too cool for school in his essay, he unfortunately missed out on the fact that the show is putting the Windy City in a positive light—something that is desperately needed. Far too often, the local and national news as well as popular shows like “The Chi,” “Chicago PD” and “Chicago Fire” showcase the dark sides of the city.

“The Bear,” instead, shows Chicago in all its architectural glory as it tells the story of this collective of culinary misfits as they struggle to open a fine-dining restaurant. No one’s been mugged, stabbed, shot or carjacked over the show’s two seasons, and I could not be more grateful.

I’ve written here before about how much I appreciated the show’s portrayal of women of color chefs. This is a first—as well as the struggles they endure without emphasizing their gender or ethnicities. In the end, it is about treating everyone equal in the kitchen, which is what everyone wants in every workplace.

One of the most memorable episodes of the second season was when chef de cuisine Sydney Adamu (Ayo Edebiri) took the audience on an adventure as she took the “L” train to visit several hot shot Chicago restaurants. Avec, Kasama and Publican Quality Meats are real establishments that represent the true grit of Chicago’s tight knit restaurant community. In “Sundae,” episode three, Sydney uses these experiences as inspiration as she works to develop an unconventional menu for the restaurant. She samples several dishes from each spot and she chats with owners, chefs and other industry experts, showing that Chicago’s restaurant industry can be a nurturing environment at times.

Truth be told, it can be quite cutthroat, too. But I would rather focus on the positives. For example, last week, the James Beard Foundation announced the 2024 Restaurant and Chef Awards semifinalists. Across social media, honorees posted their gratitudes while praising their competitors. We love to see that.

Singer Sy Smith.

This week’s soundtrack.

Until We Meet Again (2024), Sy Smith. A former backup singer for Whitney Houston, Macy Gray and Brandy, Sy Smith has certainly come into her own over the years. For example, she’s been a featured vocalist for The Brand New Heavies and Mechell Ndegeocello and has worked with the likes of Babyface, Vonda Sheppard and Chris Botti. I will admit I only discovered her a few months ago through Zo! and Tall Black Guy, the jazz, nu-soul and hip-hop duo who regularly collaborates with dope female vocalists. Smith’s sweet vocal style is one of the most prominent, as demonstrated in her latest album released in late January. The 40-minute, mostly chilled-out experience features 10 tracks, notably “Flowers,” “Photograph” and “Masterclass” with a cameo by the great drummer Sheila E.

Is It You? (2023), Ben I’Oncle Soul. What is it about American accents that is so easily duplicated? It’s impossible to detect any trace of a French accent on the newest project by this French soul singer who goes by the name Ben I’Oncle Soul. He did get his start with the Fitiavana Gospel Choir, which may have heavily influenced his smoky style that’s certainly a nod to the legendary Sam Cooke. Track highlights: “Mistakes,” “Sky Has Open Doors” and title song, “Is It You?”

Foreverland (2024), Keyon Harrold. I saw this great jazz trumpeter perform at Chicago’s Jazz Showcase in December, and I was elated when he announced that he was releasing new music in January. Harrold’s Foreverland features some exciting cameos from a few of my faves, including rapper Common and piano genius Robert Glasper on “Find Your Peace”; “Beautiful Day” with singer/songwriter PJ Morton; and “Foreverland” with British songstress Laura Mvula. It’s a masterpiece in the making.

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