Sticky Fingers
Someone stole art from the loo at Alpana; Monteverde marks decade milestone in style; and The Alston delivers 1920s steakhouse perfection.
When the Louvre heist occurred last month in Paris, the thieves stole eight pieces of priceless jewelry that included a tiara and brooch belonging to Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III. There was a collective gasp across the globe because of the audacity of the robbers doing this in the middle of the day. A couple of the pieces have been recovered though a bit damaged.
It’s always disappointing when someone steals a beautiful work of art, particularly one that is not so easily replicated. Another example was when, in 2022, a customer thought it would be cool to swipe one of the intricately crafted, copper rabbit cocktail tumblers at New Orleans’ gem Compère Lapin. The owners did some serious sleuthing in tracking it down because these items are no longer produced and considered a limited edition.
Most recently, a similar incident happened in Chicago at Alpana Singh’s eponymous Gold Coast restaurant. The retired master-sommelier-turned-restaurateur wrote on Instagram that someone took one of her treasured paintings right out of its frame from the ladies room: “Someone stole the print of a lady blowing bubble gum from the women’s stall. … It’s a fairly large print so I am assuming it was smuggled away in some ludicrously capacious handbag…It’s a very special piece having witnessed so many bathroom breaks over the last four years.”
Who does that?! A prankster? Someone who thought this print would be better suited in her home? Or it could have been a big fan of Hulu’s “The Bear” series, considering Singh made a cameo in the second episode of season four.
Regardless, it’s never a good idea to swipe anything at a restaurant, particularly from one that is a small business. That’s why restaurants offer complimentary matchbooks, pens or swizzle sticks with their logos on them to guests as souvenirs; they don’t want them running off with items from the establishments that make them unique.
I used to hang out with a group of people who loved to do this shit. They’d swipe customized punch bowls from tiki bars; signature ashtrays from cigar lounges; or designer napkins or plates from Michelin-starred restaurants. One of the guys’ homes was filled with such treasures from his misadventures, and he was surprisingly quite proud of them. Those were crazy times.
But back to Alpana. While a print is easier to duplicate than those copper rabbit cups or stolen Louvre jewelry, the sentiments are similar. It’s just not cool. And in the former’s case, I can totally envision Singh’s team meticulously framing that print.
What I love about her is that she found an even cheekier picture to replace the stolen print. “Like a Phoenix rising from the ashes,” she wrote last week on her IG page, “we replaced the stolen print with something way cuter: Darla with a Pearl Earring. Dear Art Thief: Leave your capacious handbag at home!”
Well, that’s that!
In more celebratory restaurant news, in early November, Monteverde celebrated 10 years in Chicago’s West Loop neighborhood with an incredibly large cake, local and national industry heavy hitters and live music. It was a blast as owner/chef Sarah Grueneberg reveled with many high-profile chefs like Mashama Bailey (The Grey), Erick Williams (Virtue) and Mason Hereford (The Turkey and the Wolf).
The best part of the evening was when Grueneberg brought out two women who had been with her since her days at the long-gone and much-loved Spiaggia. At Monteverde, they serve as her talented and loyal pasta makers behind the bar. Diners book seats at the bar just so they can watch in awe them working their magic. It was nice to see them get some recognition at the party.
Finally, we recently made it over to The Alston for dinner. It was a random Saturday evening, but there was nothing random about this grand steakhouse at all. It is absolutely beautiful inside—and on its terrace.
I walked in not knowing what to expect, but totally recognized the vibe the minute we stepped out of the elevator and onto the third floor of the One Chicago building in the Gold Coast. I’ve lately been re-obsessed with HBO’s “Boardwalk Empire” series, and its essence felt like we stepped back into the dawn of the roaring 1920s. Indeed, the proprietors are aiming for a vintage atmosphere—without all the gangsters.
Owned by Scott Weiner and Greg Mohr of the Fifty/50 Group and award-winning chef Jenner Tomaska (who is also behind Esmé and brand new French bistro Petite Edith), The Alston boasts spectacular, opulent chandeliers throughout the main dining room and private dining rooms. There is also an open kitchen, luxe leather and attention to details everywhere, from elegant floral arrangements to dark and sexy lounge areas. The music ranged from vintage 1920s jazz to 1960s swingers jams on the night we visited.
Because it was date night, we started with the Date Night Tower, consisting of lobster, oysters, Razor clams and Hokkaido scallops. Tomaska elevates the seafood tower with his take on accompanying sauces varying from spicy to sweet.
We didn’t order The Alston’s signature dish, Duck a la Presse, which is prepared tableside. We opted instead for steaks, a six-ounce filet mignon and 16-ounce New York strip loin. They were both butchered in house, wood-fired and glazed with charcoal clarified butter. These were the tastiest steaks we’ve eaten in a long time. They cut like butter and were so well seasoned without the addition of the sauces.
The Alston is an insanely gorgeous restaurant with so many intricate treasures in every nook, yet not once did I feel the urge to steal anything. On our way out though, I did swipe a couple of matchbooks with The Alston’s name printed on them.
As always, another great article!