I sampled apfelwein, other local delicacies, during my first visit to Frankfurt
As a child growing up in Chicago in the 1970s and 1980s, one of my guiltiest pleasures was a sweet snack we dubbed “wine candy.” Beyond Chicago’s South Side neighborhoods, it’s likely called by its official name, Jolly Ranchers candies.
I don’t know the official story behind why we called it wine candy, but I’m assuming it’s because it’s what kids believed at the time wine to taste like. Perhaps we based it on the intoxicatingly sweet and sour aroma lingering in the sticky, leftover wine glasses from our parents’ dinner parties.
That’s my first guess because that’s what I had imagined the cherry, watermelon and sour green apple flavors to taste like in a wine format. The latter was my favorite flavor, which is why I’ve always been drawn to foods and beverages that make my mouth pucker a bit, from classic Negroni cocktails to tart cherry pie to sour pickles.
So I was excited about sampling Frankfurt, Germany’s local attraction, apfelwein, or “apple wine,” when I visited for the first time while there on business in late November. A popular local beverage for more than 250 years, it is made without added sugar or yeast and from a variety of sour-tasting apples.
Before my visit, I was under the impression that locals typically drank it at rustic apple wine pubs from special ribbed glasses known as the "gerippte.” But I found it everywhere I dined, and it was presented differently at every location.
On my first night in the city, we dined at Gerbermühle, a sleek yet rustic restaurant inside Design Hotel and right off the famed River Main. Here, I enjoyed a glass of apfelwein from a traditional gerippte. I felt so legit!
It was slightly effervescent with a hint of the sour apple flavor. I appreciated that the wine was not sweet at all and that it complemented the grilled prawns I ordered.
I ordered it again at the bar in my hotel, Mövenpick. This time it arrived in a standard beer glass and was not sparkling. It was also a bit sweet. I was told that the slightly sweeter versions went well with Handkäse, or hand cheese. That’s also a local favorite—and an acquired taste.
After several days in Frankfurt, I had my opportunity to sample not two, but three of the city’s top local favorites. At the hotel, I ordered a turkey club, which came with a slather of the signature “green sauce.” It was indeed herbaceous and added a little zest to the classic sandwich.
It showed up again during our last night in Frankfurt at our holiday party at Chez Marie. This time, the green sauce was drizzled on grilled salmon and its accompanying assorted vegetables. That was pretty good.
The restaurant’s general manager, Patrick Curth, got super excited when I requested a glass of apfelwein. He brought over two bottles of the still wine version for the table and also small bowls of Handkäse, which he insisted that we must have. It was topped with fresh herbs and raw onion and was quite pungent. He served the wine in traditional white wine glasses.
The sourness of the vino brought out the sweetness of the cheese—and the onion and cheese combo tempered the bitterness of the wine. It was a delight I could not stop enjoying!
This week’s delicious soundtrack.
I’ve had some recent dining experiences with the background music not quite complementing the setting. Soooo, I will be channeling my days as a club deejay to bring you some of my favorite albums of the week. They will be old and new, but this week’s selection is a collection of some more recent releases.
The Edge (2023), Liv Warfield. Is there a category for “hard soul?” No?! Well, there should be because that’s what I’d categorize Warfield’s newest studio album. The former member of Prince’s New Power Generation group boasts some of the most versatile vocals ever, which easily go from R&B to jazz to rock. On The Edge, they are aggressive and raw, going beat for beat with electric guitar on this lively 35-minute project. Highlights include “Edge,” “Stare” and “Get 2 Know,” which offers up a bit of Afrobeat flair.
Gold (2023), Cleo Sol. Perhaps no one this year has gotten more props as a dynamic new soul artist than Cleo Sol. The British songstress was formerly with London neo-soul group Sault, then broke out with 2020’s solo project Rose in the Dark. She’s certainly come into her own with this fourth album, which feels vintage and modern simultaneously. Prime example is “In Your Own Home,” which sounds like something the Jackson 5 would have created in their prime in the 1970s. “Gold,” the title track, is as smooth as a perfect Manhattan made with premium bourbon. Her distinct, breathy vocals over head-nodding beats are reminiscent of Solange Knowles—and that’s a very good thing. This is 42 minutes of bliss.
New Blue Sun (2023), Andre 3000. Having a cocktail party and you’re stressing about what to put on as your guests arrive? Andre 3000’s first solo project is ideal as it sets the mood for something unusual to happen. The entire album is vocal free and not the typical groovy, bouncy beats that made him famous as the eclectic frontman for OutKast. Still, the album is eclectic indeed with contrabass flutes, Mayan flutes and bamboo flutes dominating the vibe. The first song, “I Swear, I Really Wanted to Make a ‘Rap’ Album, but This is Literally the Way the Wind Blew Me,” is more than 12 minutes and showcases his skills as an accomplished flutist. I recommend playing that song as well as “Ninety Three ‘Til Infinity and Beyoncé” and “Dreams Once Buried Beneath the Dungeon Floor Slowly Sprout into Undying Gardens,” then moving on to something livelier.
Soul Rising (2023), Will Downing. In the early 1990s, Will Downing was one of my favorite artists, so it’s nice to see that he’s consistently cranking out good work. This year saw two releases, Soul Rising and Pieces. The former feels like old-school R&B that’s been remastered—with his silky, soul vocals wooing me at every turn. He could teach these young artists a thing or two! Every song is perfect for a romantic dinner party for two. I tried to pick my favorite tracks, but I loved them all. So, I just recommend listening to the song list in order.
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Looks like you had a brilliant trip to Frankfurt.