When Black-Owned Restaurants Walk a Fine Line
They aim to appeal to the community by embracing its 'culture,' which can sometimes get lost in translation.
TRUE Kitchen & Kocktails opened last summer and it’s already found itself in a heap of trouble. Owner Kevin Kelley, who is also an attorney at the law firm directly above the restaurant, went viral Sunday with his rant to customers accused of twerking in the dining room. He actually cursed them out!
He has since apologized for his behavior, yet he explains what led to his outburst: Guests at a few tables ignored several pleas from management to refrain from twerking—even though the deejay was playing “twerk-friendly” tunes. Some people argue that if he didn’t want guests dancing, he shouldn’t have a deejay spinning “turn up” music. They’re calling it “the culture,” and believe that TRUE’s self-described “Southern comfort food” atmosphere is an invitation to let their hair down.
I’ve seen this too many times over the 20+ years I’ve covered the restaurant industry. And it hasn’t only occurred in Black-owned restaurants. But for today, we’ll discuss why and how this happens in Black-owned establishments. The TRUE incident, of course, is an extreme example.
Upscale, Southern-focused restaurants owned by Black folks can be found all over the country. I’ve visited more than I can count. There are distinctly a few types: 1) establishments centrally located so as to attract diverse audiences, downtown crowds, and tourists; 2) restaurant/live music hybrids with genres ranging from jazz to blues to retro R&B; 3) family-friendly, no-booze eateries located in the ‘hood for breakfast/brunch/lunch/dinner; and 4) dining establishments catering to younger, hipper clientele with a deejay spinning contemporary soul and rap.
Now, restaurants with the #4 description typically have a list of rules for behavior at the entrance (I’ve always wondered what could have occurred that prompted the owners/managers to post a list of rules, but when alcohol is involved some people forget their manners). They also tend to stay open later, transforming into clubbier settings.
Herein lies the issue. Guests arriving on the later end for dinner in an establishment that embraces the culture with the food, the setting, and the music are going to be more relaxed. Don’t want them getting too relaxed? Control the music, and you’ll be able to control the vibe.
TRUE’s Kelley has already stated in an Instagram post that he’s changing the music: “… moving forward, we will adjust our playlist and deejay selections. However, regardless of what has or what will be played, no guest has the right to come into our business ‘home’ and stand on our furniture because of any song played.”
He wants his establishment to serve as a role model for others in the Dallas community. “We are moving with a cause to show other minority entrepreneurs they can own their building, own their restaurant, and they can be successful growing their own brand.
“There is nothing that will deter my team from this cause. We want the full support of the community who understands our cause because we value you and we will be here ready, willing and able to serve you with respect.”
I believe this owner has learned a valuable lesson.
[Photo: TRUE Kitchen & Kocktails]