Event amplifies unsung heroes of the kitchen
San Pellegrino's 'On The Line' dinners honor line cooks with five-course feasts, panel discussions about their importance to industry. Plus, hot events for this week and beyond.
Last week, I listened as Boka owner Kevin Boehm told four young female line cooks that highly regarded chef Diana Davila used to be a line cook at the award-winning restaurant under Giuseppe Tentori.
They eagerly hung onto his every word as he described how hard she used to work, then eventually going on to open Mi Tocaya Antojeria, her James Beard-nominated, Mexican-focused restaurant in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood.
“That could be one of you some day,” he encouraged them as they smiled through bites of a five-course dinner on Boka’s enclosed patio dining room.
Throughout the years, I’ve attended countless dinners honoring famous chefs, world-renowned authors and even A-List celebrities, but this was the first time I’ve experienced an event amplifying the unsung heroes of the kitchen: the line cooks.
This was the fifth “On The Line” dinner, sponsored by San Pellegrino, that paid tribute to the line cooks who work tirelessly in restaurant kitchens all over the country. The first four events took place in New York, and the Boka event had more than 25 line cooks as their special guests with Executive Chef Lee Wolen whipping up some of his signature dishes, including whole-roasted dry-aged duck, paired with wines.
I was lucky enough to sit with Boehm, author Andrew Friedman (Chefs, Drugs and Rock & Roll; Knives at Dawn) and the four female line cooks, who worked at RPM Italian, Hermosa and Khmai Fine Dining. Boehm and Friedman entertained the table with transparent tales from their years in the industry. Following dinner, Wolen joined them for a panel discussion where they emphasized the importance of mentorship as well as more personal experiences in the industry.
“There’s a lesson to be learned from being in a market like [Chicago] where everyone knows each other so well,” Boehm spoke candidly to the audience. “You cannot unring a bell. If you go into your first restaurant, and you are [known as] the late, hungover line cook, you might be the late, hungover line cook for a long time because of your living and breathing resume of who you are. The energy you bring into that restaurant, that story can be passed down from person to person because we live in such a tight-knit community.”
Boehm also mentioned a few success stories of line cooks who came out of his restaurants, such as Davila and Genie Kwon—who last week won a James Beard Award for “Best Chef Great Lakes” with partner Tim Flores for their Filipino-focused eatery Kasama. Davila worked at Boka, while Kwon worked at the now-shuttered GT Fish & Oyster.
“We’ve been fortunate to see a lot of people who’ve worked in this environment go on to do some amazing things,” he continued. “All these things are interconnected. We all learn from each other. … Restaurants are the sum of all the people who work at these places. And if you pay attention, you can learn something from everyone in the front and the back.”
5 great events this week and beyond
Black on Black Dinner. It’s the 40th anniversary for the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. It’s also the second-annual Black on Black Dinner, hosted by Chef JJ Johnson and starring high-profile culinary stars like Nina Compton, Robin and Andrea McBride (The McBride Sisters Wines), Andre Mack, Donae Burston and Dwyane Wade. It occurs at the Jerome Hotel in Aspen, Colorado, June 15-18. Tickets are still available.
Murder Mystery at The Violet Hour. Throughout June, the award-winning cocktail lounge in Chicago encourages customers to get their sleuth on to find out who “murdered” their beloved cook Francisco. Every Monday and Tuesday, a special “Clue”-themed menu features cocktails with details on what happened. The drinks, such as Yvette The Maid (Cognac, yellow Chartreuse, lemon, honey, Cardamaro, rhubarb bitters, sparkling wine) and Mr. Green (Old Overholt rye whiskey, Cap Corse rouge, Campari, Dopo Teatro vermouth amaro, scorched vanilla demerara, herbsaint, orange), sound delicious.
Caribbean Jerk & Soul Food Festival. The free event occurs in Woodland Hills, California, with a portion of the proceeds from food sales benefiting the Trinidad Mission Team. The organizers have invited a New York chef to work the grills for jerk chicken, plus blackened salmon, curry chicken and more. The family-friendly event includes live reggae music and Afrobeats, plus summer games everyone can enjoy. It happens 2-8pm June 17, and you can get more information right here.
Barks at the Barn. Every Sunday though August 27 is a chance for you to check out Bold Rock Distillery with your furriest friend. Located in Nellysford, Virginia (two-and-a-half hours from D.C.), the regional craft cider company uses locally sourced apples in its products. During the daytime party, guests can mingle with other pet “parents,” sample beverages and listen to live music. It happens noon-4pm at 1020 Rockfish Valley Highway.
Austin Food & Wine Festival. One of the country’s coolest cities also happens to throw a great food bash. The three-day event occurs Nov. 4-6, so now is the time to start planning your trip. Highlights will include local and national culinary talent, live music, sampling from an array of wine, beer and spirits exhibitors, and more. Here’s where you can get more information on tickets.
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This was such an important event! Thank you for highlighting it!