Boka marks 20 years, finally a piece of Justice of the Pies, more
It’s been a busy October, much busier than usual, which is why I’ve been super late on putting up this post.
Chicago’s iconic Signature Room restaurant closed suddenly the last week of September. For more than 30 years, it was a destination because of its breathtaking views of the city. But with so many highly regarded, chef-driven eateries all over Chicago, it had fallen out of favor years ago. These days, you simply cannot operate on hype alone. Diners are really getting choosy about where they’re spending their money.
That’s why restaurants like Boka—which celebrates 20 years this month—continue to not only get accolades, but also a steady flow of customers. This is no easy task, particularly during a post-pandemic era that’s seen so many popular establishments shutter because of rising costs, shrinking staffs and other factors. The owners really struck gold several years ago when they installed Lee Wolen as executive chef and partner. I still dream about his roast chicken, the best in town.
During the anniversary party, held Oct. 1, founders/principal partners Kevin Boehm and Rob Katz acknowledged the difficulties of keeping not only Boka afloat, but their many restaurants throughout the city and Los Angeles as well. Difficult decisions have been made, from chef shuffles to shutterings (After a high-profile opening earlier this year, their Le Select restaurant closed the day after this party.). Boehm maintained that their success is built on “trust,” “solid friendships” and “realistic expectations.”
It also helps that they’re super engaged with their staffs—some have been there since day one—as well as the local and national hospitality communities. That showed in who showed up at their anniversary party. Other local restaurateurs, chefs and food journalists packed the house, including Donnie Madia (One Off Hospitality), Sarah Stegner (Prairie Grass Café) and FOX-Chicago’s Sylvia Perez, who serves as lead anchor for “Good Day Chicago.”
Over the years, I’ve attended countless restaurant and bar opening parties, anniversary events and other celebrations to honor establishments’ milestones. Some have been super extravagant with Champagne fountains and servers passing around caviar. Others flew in high-profile musicians to impress their guests. A few owners even sent limos to pick me up—with Champagne chilling in ice.
When Boka opened in 2003 and the owners invited my friends and me to help them usher in their new project, they hired a deejay, passed around some small bites and had an open bar for a few hours. It was one of the best parties that fall. We had a blast. Nothing has changed. It’s still one of the best parties in town.
As I mentioned earlier, the Boka guys have had quite a few hits on their hands. They opened their first steakhouse with Swift & Sons in 2015, and followed up with GT Prime in 2016. They’re situated in tony neighborhoods Fulton Market District and River North, respectively, yet I’m not always in the mood to travel downtown.
That’s why I was ecstatic when Smoque Steakhouse opened only five minutes north of me, in Avondale, earlier this year. Barry Sorkin, best known for his Texas-style barbecue at Smoque, had a built-in audience for his more upscale offering specializing in smoked steaks, fresh seafood and craft cocktails. It doesn’t hurt that it’s super cute and modern inside. I loved the market at the entrance. It carried bottles of to-go cocktails and wine; prime steaks; farm-fresh eggs; house-made sauces; and more.
There’s even weekend brunch. I haven’t been yet, but since it’s up the street, I like that I’ll be able to pop by whenever I want. I’ll be coming for signature dishes like Banana Brittle French Toast, a shaved prime tenderloin sandwich, deep-dish frittata and Lobster Biscuit Benedict. Every neighborhood should be so fortunate.
Speaking of biscuits, South Side newcomer Justice of the Pies has them, too. And, yes, they’re homestyle and taste as good as my Great Aunt Nannie Mae’s. When they’re fresh out of the oven, they can be eaten with only a pat of butter.
But doing basic things is not how proprietor Maya-Camille Broussard operates. I learned that about her when I first interviewed her back in 2020 for Esquire. She is a force, and her pastry shop is the best thing that’s emerged as a star in the Calumet Heights neighborhood since award-winning actor/rapper Common. I would know. I grew up there.
I went in with the plan of buying a couple of slices of pie. I left with almost everything on the menu. I couldn’t help myself. The pound cakes were calling my name. I bought a slice of each: Blueberry-Lemon, Lemon and Caramel-Apple, which was oozing with house-made caramel mixed in with tiny bits of apple. It paid homage to the Affy Tapple treats we devoured as children.
I moved on to her savory pastries, Bacon Spinach Feta Quiche and Deconstructed Chicken Pot Pie. I somehow lucked up and managed to snap up the last two orders. The pot pie is where Broussard’s biscuits come into play. Look at the photo below. I didn’t do it justice.
It took me almost an hour to get home after leaving her shop, yet the biscuit was still warm. I heated it up anyway along with the pot pie mixture of roasted chicken, carrots, peas, corn and fresh herbs. Broussard lists the pot pie recipe in her book, but I plan on heading down to Calumet Heights soon to get it again.
I just hope she doesn’t sell out before I can get to it!
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Great article! All those dishes look so delicious!