Alpana Singh’s chic Chicago restaurant hits its groove
I’ve been following Alpana Singh’s career since she served as host for “Check, Please!,” the now-defunct restaurant-focused WTTW-TV show that had everyday people reviewing local establishments. We didn’t meet until two or three years into her tenure when I was assigned by a Chicago magazine to hang out with her for a night on the town and write about my experience.
At the time, Singh was also the master sommelier for Lettuce Entertain You Restaurants, so she had me running around with her to a few of their most popular eateries, including Osteria Via Stato, to sip wine, nosh on appetizers and chat. We hit it off big time. So big, in fact, that she felt comfortable enough to introduce me to Malört, the excessively bitter liqueur that’s become a sort of rites of passage for Chicago nightlife goers.
While I hated the Malört—as most people do—I have always appreciated her tastes when it comes to fine wines and pairing them with food. I was excited when she opened The Boarding House in River North, Seven Lions in the Loop, then Terra & Vine in Evanston, Illinois. Each was chef driven with an emphasis on dishes being paired with unconventional wines chosen by Singh. All are now shuttered, with the latter being a victim of the Covid-19 pandemic.
Most people would have thrown in the towel following three high-profile closings, but not Singh. She pushed forward in 2022 to open a fourth establishment, Alpana, which she describes as a “neighborhood restaurant.”
Let me just express how much I am a fan of her interpretation of a neighborhood restaurant. It’s exactly the sort of place where you’d expect the fashionable and fabulous to dine when they’re doing a casual night on the town.
Over-the-top floral arrangements and foliage, chandeliers, a wall lined with pictures of fabulous and famous women enjoying their favorite beverages, and a lively soundtrack set the mood. They also encourage guests to settle in as though they’ve arrived for a spectacular dinner party. It feels chic, yet extremely comfortable at once, which is very hard to pull off.
The menu is comprised of bistro favorites, from house-made pastas and grilled steaks to roasted chicken. For this restaurant project, Singh has added a bit of her Indian heritage on the menu. On the appetizer menu, you’ll find Butter Chicken Meatballs in garam masala spiced tomato gravy with freshly baked naan. “I’ve always loved butter chicken, so I turned it into a meatball,” Singh explains.
There’s also the share-able figs and burrata dish that comes with fig chutney, cherry tomatoes, balsamic reduction, Marcona almonds and sourdough. And larger plates that pay homage to Singh’s background include Squid Ink Campanella with rock shrimp, tarragon and saffron chili butter as well as salmon accented by lemongrass coconut curry.
While there aren’t any obvious wine pairings on the menu, you get the idea that you cannot go wrong here. Plus, Singh was mindful about the by glass selections; there is a nice variety without them being overwhelming and over-priced.
The same sentiment is carried over to the cocktail list, which boasts new takes on classics like Galician White Negroni featuring vermouth bianco; Orange Old Fashioned with orange wine syrup; and Tan Lines Daiquiri with pineapple rum and passion fruit rum.
This was my fourth time dining at Alpana. And if the restaurant continues to operate on this level, rest assured it won’t be my last. She’s definitely found her groove with this one.
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Fantastic article! Alpana is such a wonderful place!