A Season to Indulge in Winter Comfort Fare
More than ever, diners want dishes that make them feel like everything will be all right. We explore some of Chicago's best during this WGN Radio segment.
While prepping for this segment on winter comfort foods for WGN Radio with host Anna Davlantes, I suddenly wondered, why is it that all these restaurants serving this type of food appear to be busier than others right now?
The answer is simple: When times are difficult, folks tend to gravitate towards the familiar. They stick closer to home and order cuisine that’ll make them feel better about their current situations. With 2020 being especially dire due to the coronavirus pandemic, restaurants are at the mercy of diners’ finicky appetites and leaner wallets.
According to the National Restaurant Association, as of today more than 110,000 establishments are closed permanently or long-term. That’s due to little to no help from national and local arms of government, increased labor costs, and an average 36% drop in sales revenue, states the NRA.
For some establishments, however, there is still a huge demand, with customers waiting up to two hours for a signature dish. I witnessed this phenomenon firsthand at 5 Loaves Eatery in Chicago’s Chatham neighborhood last summer when I ordered breakfast to go. Perhaps they were still adjusting to their curbside-only concept, but there was a constant line of people waiting patiently for their orders. The restaurant is constantly busy, every day, from the moment the business is open. What’s interesting is that 5 Loaves hasn’t adjusted the menu during the entire pandemic. It’s a soul food restaurant where everything’s made to order, and from scratch, with buttery biscuits, fried chicken and waffles, and fried catfish nuggets with creamy grits as highlights.
The same goes for Traspasada Restaurant, in Chicago’s Northwest Side neighborhood of Avondale. Pre-pandemic, it was a sit-down and delivery/takeout eatery, but they shut down indoor dining in March and shifted to delivery/takeout only. The restaurant is known for its freshly grilled tortillas, black salsa, and extensive taco menu. But what sets Traspasada apart from the many Mexican restaurants throughout the city are the soup offerings, which are made from scratch and taste like someone’s talented abuelita made them. Of note is the caldo de pollo, or chicken soup, that comes with two drumsticks, plus carrots, potatoes, zucchini, and green beans. Similar to 5 Loaves, the outpouring of support for this restaurant is a wonder to watch. Every day, there is a steady line of customers going in and going out.
Listen to the WGN Radio interview in its entirety right here for the full list of restaurants.
[Photos: pho at Le Colonial by Matthew Lowell Photos (top); rabbit pot pie from Le Bouchon (center); caldo de pollo from Traspasada Restaurant by John Greenfield (bottom)]
Comfort food is the best!